Author: Dani C

Trieste is made up of the sea, the city and the Karst, which can each be enjoyed through unique experiences in the surroundings. We have come up with a selection of walks and itineraries. Which one appeals to you?

APERITIF IN A CARSO CAVE: THE SLIVIA TOWERS

Over 100 meters deep, the Slivia Towers cave is one of the most spectacular caves of the Trieste Karst. You will be accompanied on a journey into its depths, arriving in another dimension, where distances lose all meaning.

As it is smaller than the Grotta Gigante, you are able to admire in close-up these ancient calcereous living statues in their continuous formation.

It’s open on Saturdays and Sundays, and from 15 June it will be open every day. You can get there by car or by bus 44 to the stop at the intersection for Slivia. Corrado (338 3515876) and his family will be your guides, and will offer you some local refreshment on their agriturismo farm.

FISHING TRIP WITH LOCAL FISHERMEN (GRIGNANO)

Experience fishing as it has always been done in Trieste, in a local fisherman’s boat off the Miramare Castle. You will see how mussels have been farmed for over 40 years.

The Grand finale is a lunch of Trieste fish on board the boat. You will learn the tricks used to cook excellent mussels and enjoy “Bigoli alle mussels” and the legendary “breaded Sardoni” together with a glass of local wine.

Davide (348 5225281) will welcome you on his fishing boat Laudamar and will reveal everything you need to know about mussel farming.

KARSOLICIOUS: PICNIC WITH LIPIZZANI HORSES (LIPICA)

The Lipizzani stallions were favourite horses of the Austo-Hungarian empire, of which Trieste was long a part. Lipica is located 15 km from Victoria, in Slovenia. It is the oldest horse breeding stable in Europe and the charm of this legendary place lingers on. Visiting the stables or watching shows at the classical riding school is like diving into another time.

We suggest a walk in the huge oak park with a picnic basket full of local products, which can be bought there, or visiting the horse breeding farm.

AN AFTERNOON WITH A FLOCK OF SHEEP (FATTORIA ANTONIČ)

 Would you like to help bring a flock to pasture in the Karst? The shepherd of the Fattoria Antonič di Ceroglie will do it with you. Then he will teach you the secrets of milking sheep, with a great tasting finale of the excellent pecorino cheese made with that milk.

To book your afternoon as a Karst shepherd, please phone the Antonič family: 340 5847185.

COFFEE TOUR OF TRIESTE (TRIESTE COFFEE FESTIVAL)

The history of Trieste is intimately linked with coffee, which has been made here for 300 years and shipped all over the world. It is no coincidence that Illy, the prestigious brand, was born in Trieste.

So why not take an urban tour in the name of the history of coffee? Visit the historic cafes, and the museum, to learn about the different blends, the toasting and the many ways to taste it in Trieste.  At the end of your trip you’ll understand more about the economy , culture and tradition of the city of coffee.

The journalist Cristina Favento (348 8708060) will be able to guide you in discovering this fundamental element of Triestine culture and economy.

TASTING AND TRAINING IN TORREFAZIONE (TRIESTE COFFEE ASSOCIATION)

If you’d prefer to witness the whole coffee processing cycle, and visit the warehouses and roasting plants at the port, then the tour with Fabrizio is the one for you (fpolojaz@primoaroma.it).

TRADITIONAL CELLARS: LOCAL WINES AND ARTISAN SALAMI

If you are a fan of food and wine, then this is the tour for you. The breeding and processing of pork from which the famous Carstine ham originates, as well as the production of wines from indigenous grapes such as Vitovska, Malvasie and Terrano with their age-old cellars, will be explained, and you can taste them in the company of Matej, of the Bajta Karst farm, (338 672 3705).

THE BEETHOVEN LIBRARY IN MUGGIA, THE LARGEST EUROPEAN PRIVATE COLLECTION

Last but not least is the museum of music that is a gem for lovers of classical music. It is situated in “Venetian” Muggia, a few kilometers from Trieste and reachable by ferry. This is the largest private European collection of Beethoven and the Carrino family (348 580 7227) will welcome you on a delightful tour back in time.

Do you need more information or want to plan one of these experiences? Simply call or write to the hotel and we will help to organize your adventure to coincide with your stay in Trieste.

Do you need help in planning one of these experiences? Just call or email the hotel.

info@hotelvictoriatrieste.com – 040 362415

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A distinctive Adriatic experience awaits in this Old World city, with its broad, breezy plazas, coffeehouses and cozy seafood restaurants.

Trieste is famous for its cold, gale-force Bora wind, and indeed, all manner of creatures and people have blown through the seaside city in Italy’s far northeast, next to the Slovenian border. Dinosaurs and Neanderthals once roamed the limestone hills of the Karst region, and legend holds that Jason and the Argonauts sailed in with the Golden Fleece. Empires breezed in, too, notably the Roman and the Byzantine. But it was centuries of Austrian rule that left the most enduring mark. The House of Hapsburg built much of Trieste’s regal core and left a permanent mark on its gastronomy — evinced by the beer, sauerkraut and strudel on many restaurant menus. The winds also brought James Joyce, who lived intermittently in the city in the early 20th century. But Trieste is hardly a gusty relic. A new high-tech photography museum, an expanding night life area and a fancy new nearby marina, Portopiccolo, join the Old World churches, picturesque piazzas, sumptuous palazzo-museums, classic Austrian coffeehouses and cozy seafood restaurants to create a distinctive Adriatic experience.

Read more…

The Italian port of Trieste bristles with life, has a fascinating history and serves – probably – the finest coffee in the country, according to Helen Pickles. “To discover the secret of a happy life head to Trieste, the Italian port tucked inside the Slovenian border,” she adds. “The Triestini embrace life with a passion that is palpable and infectious, if the chatter at evening aperitivo is anything to go by. And at the merest hint of sunshine, Triestini are off to the nearby seaside, Barcola, even in November, and even though it’s a concrete strip. “This unsquashable humour is no doubt born of being a frontier city, variously owned or occupied by the Romans, Habsburgs, Mussolini’s regime, Germans and Allied Forces, only finally returning to Italy in 1954. The consequence is a glorious jumble of architectural and ethnic influences. In the space of 15 minutes, I came across Serbian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox and Helvetic Evangelist churches, while the city’s synagogue is one of the largest in Europe.”

Full article.

It has been a while since Austrian railway carriages were last seen in Trieste. But the former Habsburg port may well secure a direct rail link with Austria in summer 2018. The possibility of extending the existing Villach-Udine regional rail service to Trieste at weekends is being evaluated. The Villach-Udine cross-border link was launched in 2012. Five years on, it seems that the trains – which run twice daily in each direction – are well used.

There are already connections in Udine with Italian local trains to Trieste, which is about 80 km away to the south-east of Udine. But the plan is that from June 2018, for an experimental period of about one year, ÖBB trains from Villach could on Saturdays and Sundays run right through to Trieste. The travel time from Villach to Trieste would be about three hours.

The main station in Trieste has not had any regular international trains for some years. The station at Villa Opicina, on the karst a few kilometres north of Trieste and still in Italian territory, has regular local trains to Slovenia, but Trieste itself is devoid of international services. So the appearance of Villach on the departure boards at Trieste will bring a renewed dash of Austrian flair to a city that once flourished as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Read more…

Boasting a richly varied history and culture, Trieste is in all respects a border town, whose elegant pose is occasionally shaken by the turbulent Bora wind gusting from the North East. Discover its castles, architecture, culinary traditions, literary heritage and Mediterranean culture.

A visit to Trieste may well start from Miramare Castle, perhaps its most iconic landmark. Built in 1860 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the castle combines Gothic and Medieval elements, in keeping with the eclectic fashion of the day. The Adriatic Sea and the seashore park, rich in rare botanical species and peculiar decorations, provide the Hapsburg city with a Mediterranean background, creating a fairy-tale scenery able to revive the spirit of times gone by.

The surrounding area is also a WWF marine nature reserve, where the visitor can experience scuba diving and virtual tours.

The stretch of coast between Miramare and Trieste city centre is Barcola, the triestini’s favourite place for summer playtime. When evening comes, after bathing and sunbathing, a Spritz at one of the pine grove’s kiosks is highly recommended.

A good place to start is Molo Audace. Walk along the shore until the end of the dock by the Gulf of Trieste. From here you can admire the elegant palaces of Piazza Unità, often regarded as the city’s parlour. Formerly known as ‘Piazza Grande’, the square was renamed after Trieste’s annexation to the Kingdom of Italy in 1918 and is the largest seaside square in Europe. Look for the halberds, symbol of the city, and for the two figures striking the hours on top of the Town Hall, Mikeze e Jakeze, who will be found again later on. The night view of the square is not to be missed.

This pedestrian area, next to Piazza Unità, is the most lively spot of the Zità Vecia (‘old town’, in the local dialect). The visitor allowing themselves to get lost amid Cavana’s alleys will find a number of bars, cafes, restaurants, quaint corners and little squares, some of the highlights of the area being the Arch of Richard, the neoclassic Rotonda Pancera and the modern art gallery Revoltella. James Joyce lived here during his last period in Trieste.

On top of the old town, a short walk from Cavana, is San Giusto Hill… read more

Di solito vi diamo il benvenuto alla reception per accogliervi al Victoria, che sarà la vostra “seconda casa” per il tempo che avrete deciso di soggiornarvi.
Oggi invece, vi dò il benvenuto in questo spazio di lettura, che inauguriamo per mettervi a disposizione tutte le nostre dritte e spunti su come vivere al meglio Trieste, cosa fare quando siete qui, insomma tutti quei consigli che solo qualcuno di locale, che vive la città tutti giorni, vi può dare.

Per questo vogliamo chiamare questa rubrica I consigli del Victoria.

E quale potrebbe essere il primo di questi consigli, se non indicarvi come raggiungerci nel modo più semplice attraverso le strade panoramiche di Trieste?
Incontrando gli ospiti al front desk, infatti, mi capita di chiedere a chi è appena arrivato come è andato il viaggio e altrettanto spesso chiedo che strada abbiano fatto per raggiungere la nostra struttura.
Nella maggior parte dei casi, il GPS li porta a fare la peggiore. Quella, per intenderci, che passa per la zona industriale.

Perciò qui intendo fornirvi alcune indicazioni sulla via da seguire per arrivare nel centro di Trieste nel “migliore” dei modi. Oltretutto, le strade più belle spesso sono anche le più corte.

La Strada Costiera

Trieste ha dei tramonti stupendi e per questo, in base all’orario e alla stagionalità, vi consiglio di percorrere la Strada Costiera per ammirare questo spettacolo della natura. Raggiungerla è molto semplice.
Prima regola: chiudere il GPS. 😉

Se arrivate da Venezia, avete due possibilità:

• Una volta usciti all’ultimo casello (Lisert), proseguite sull’autostrada (non a pagamento), poi prendete l’uscita Sistiana e continuate per la Strada Costiera in direzione di Trieste.
• L’alternativa è, una volta usciti al casello Lisert, prendere la direzione Monfalcone, per poi dirigersi verso Duino, quindi Sistiana. La strada è meno veloce, ma sicuramente più piacevole. Vi consiglio una sosta alle risorgive del Timavo e una visita alla Chiesa di San Giovanni in Tuba, esempio di Architettura Gotica. Dietro l’altare si possono ancora vedere gli scavi della vecchia Basilica e i mosaici risalenti al V Secolo.

Una volta arrivati sulla Strada Costiera, per ammirare il tramonto o comunque il panorama, il consiglio è di fermarsi all’altezza della galleria naturale. Subito dopo la galleria ci sono diversi posteggi.

Da qui potete iniziare a sentirvi a Trieste, un’esperienza che inizia dal mare e dal carso, per completarsi in centro città. Davanti a voi lo strapiombo, l’orizzonte si perde nel mare e in lontananza sulla sinistra vi accoglie il Castello di Mirarmare. Una roccia riporta la targa con uno dei più famosi versi di Umberto Saba. Le foto, qui, si sprecano. Questa strada da sola vale un’emozione, anche per chi la percorre ogni giorno.

Strada del Friuli

La seconda strada che consiglio di fare è Strada del Friuli. Dall’autostrada, la direzione da prendere è Prosecco, piccolo paese che ha dato il nome al vino spumantizzato di Valdobbiadene. Sembra proprio che il vitigno venga dall’uva Glera, che nasce sul Carso triestino.

Per arrivare a Prosecco bisogna prendere l’uscita autostradale omonima, che si trova a 5 km circa dopo quella di Sistiana. Tuttavia, anche uscendo a Sistiana, la si raggiunge anche proseguendo per Aurisina. Una volta passato il piccolo centro di Prosecco, si prosegue a destra imboccando Strada del Friuli, alla prima curva capirete senz’altro perché vi indica questa via. Arrivati a Prosecco si può anche scegliere di fare una sosta al Santuario di Monte Grisa, qui la vista sul Golfo di Trieste è semplicemente mozzafiato. Strada del Friuli, una volta percorsa tutta, vi porterà direttamente in centro, zona Stazione ferroviaria.

Opicina

L’ultimo consiglio che citerò è quello di passare (quasi sfiorare), il paesino di Opicina, dove c’è il capolinea del famoso Tram. L’uscita è la medesima (Prosecco), ma la direzione è Opicina, per poi continuare verso Trieste centro. Qui consiglio la sosta all’Obelisco, a meno che non decidiate, durante il vostro soggiorno, di prendere il Tram dal centro città. Il panorama è sempre sul Golfo, ma con una visuale completamente diversa. Si può parcheggiare l’auto e fare un breve tratto della Strada Vicentina o più comunemente chiamata Napoleonica.

Questo sentiero si protrae all’interno del Carso triestino fino a Prosecco e al Santuario di Monte Grisa. La strada è lunga circa 4 chilometri e si mantiene sempre in quota.

Dopo aver scattato le dovute fotografie, potete riprendere l’auto e dirigervi verso il centro cittadino.
Quando avrete deciso il percorso da fare per arrivare a Trieste, dando per scontato che sarete nostri ospiti, l’Hotel Victoria vi aspetta per darvi indicazioni su cosa visitare e fare durante il vostro soggiorno.
Ne scriveremo nei prossimi post.

Lorenzo Vidoni – General Manager

Le foto utilizzate in questo articolo sono degli utenti Flickr:

• Alessandro Caproni
• Paolo Tosolini
• ho visto nina volare