20 June 2018

Victoria tips: Where to enjoy the beaches in Trieste

Here is our guide on where to go to the sea in Trieste and nearby. One of the most frequently asked questions in summer is: how and where to take advantage of the sea in Trieste.

As with everything, Trieste reveals its charm in never providing a single answer. In Trieste there are many churches, many communities, many languages and just as many ways of experiencing the sea.

Generally, the first thing we answer is: how much time do you have? This starts from a very Triestine consideration of living by the sea, where it is so much part of people’s daily life, that one free hour is enough to enjoy a regenerating dip and a bit of sun. It is no coincidence that we talk about “going to bathe” instead of going to the beach, as we do it so often.

In the city

One of the classic Trieste beach destinations is Ausonia, located at the bottom of the Rive after the small port of the “Sacchetta”. From Victoria, you can easily reach it with Bus no. 9: Ausonia is in front of the last stop. The area has an internal restaurant with one of the most beautiful open views of the gulf.

Right next to the Ausonia bathing facility you can see the famous bathing area of La Lanterna, also called Pedocin.  It is a little unique, in that men and women are still separated in the bathing areas, something that happened in the past.

Last year, the film The Last Beach, which tells the story of La Lanterna, won an award at the Cannes Film Festival.

Barcola and Miramare

If you find yourself near the Castle of Miramare – a must see for those who visit Trieste – you can enjoy the magnificent waters in front of the WWF Marine Reserve if you choose the Sticco bathing facility, on the road leading to the Castle. Or, beyond the Castle, the Grignano 1 – Sirena facility, which can be reached on foot by going down the path that leads to the small port of Grignano. This last establishment is especially recommended for families, as it has two pools and also facilitated access to the sea for the disabled.

As you drive along the road to Miramare, don’t miss the Barcola seafront show – hundreds of young people sunbathing just above the rocks, from the pinewood, along the “Topolini” terraces, to the beaches close to the entrance to the Castle.

Bathing facilities on the coastal road

Beyond the Castle, there are two other bathing facilities that we love to recommend, as they are ideal for a half day of relaxation: Grignano 2 – Riviera and Le Ginestre.

Renowned for its cleanliness and tranquillity, the Riviera, halfway along the coast road, overlooks rather sandy waters; or the Ginestre, still on the coastal road, but 25 minutes from the city centre, is a paradise, nestled between the green of the pines and the depth of the coastal waters.

Natural beaches (not very easy to reach) but near excellent restaurants

Last but not least, you can find natural beaches close to seafood restaurants. On the coast road, the first of these is the Red Tenda Restaurant (clearly visible from the road): the path that starts from there will lead you to the wild Porticciolo di Santa Croce.

Further on the coast road, at the Bellariva Restaurant you can access the free beach ‘Filtri’. The restaurant cannot be seen from the road, but can be reached by going down the cul de sac, Strada Auguste Piccard.

Continuing along the coast road, just past the Galleria Naturale, there is the pebble beach of Canovella de Zoppoli, with its tiny port and a restaurant that serves fresh fish directly from the sea.

Portopiccolo and Sistiana Bay

Portopiccolo is a novelty: a way of experiencing the sea in a luxurious way. Housed in a former Roman quarry, the place is reminiscent of a small Portocervo, with boats and terraces from which to enjoy the sea in an exclusive way, surrounded by every comfort.

It is one of the most beautiful inlets on the coast, framed by the steep rocks of the Costa dei Barbari on one side and the cliffs surrounding the Castello di Duino on the other.

Portopiccolo can be reached just after the town of Sistiana, by descending to the Bay. Once there you can opt for the beaches of Portopiccolo on the left, or go on to the Bay itself, on the right, one of the favourite destinations of Triestini. The Cantera nightclub is very popular in the evenings.

For a detailed description of each beach as well as notes on the traditions of Trieste related to the sea, we recommend reading The Guide to the Best Beaches in the City.

As a literary hotel, however, we recommend the book I MARI DI TRIESTE published by Bompiani, edited by Federica Manzon and with photos by Diego Artioli (124pp, € 17.00) in which the great writers linked to Trieste talk about their personal experiences of the sea in their city. To name a few: Mauro Covacich, Gillo Dorfles, Veit Heinichen, Claudio Magris, Boris Pahor, Pino Roveredo.

In short, you are spoiled for choice. None of these possibilities will leave you disappointed, and you will have the certain knowledge of having lived the sea just as Trieste people do.